Cultural Curiosities




Transportation in Cochabamba

Being one of Bolivia's larger cities, Cochabamba has a variety of public transportation options, some of them more practical and entertaining than others. Besides regular taxis, two of the most notable are:

Taxi Trufis



Taxi Trufis are taxis that travel along a fixed route within the city. The name itself is literally short for Taxi RUta FIja (fixed route taxi). Each trufi has a designated number that corresponds to the route it takes through the city; the placards posted on the windshields also give names of the major city locations it visits. You can hail a trufi at any point along its route and ask to get off at any point along the route as well. The fixed fare is the same as for a micro bus (see below) and thus much cheaper than regular taxis. The goal of the trufi driver is to keep his taxi as fully occupied as possible--the maximum number ranges from 5 to about 15 (in minivans), but they aren't allowed to pack passengers in as tightly as in the micros (see below). We take trufis most of the time because they are cheaper than regular taxis and faster than the rickety micros. I think this would be a great, cost-effective travel option in the US--what do you think?

Micro Buses

Micro buses are basically refurbished, repainted old schoolbuses that also follow a fixed route throughout the city. They are old, rickety, and can't take a turn at more than a crawl in order to keep from tipping over. 

The best part about the micros, however, is the way in which they are pimped out and accessorized. They all have bright, colorful paint jobs, and on the side windows are painted the words "Confort, Seguridad, Elegancia" (comfort, security, elegance). This always struck me as hilarious because clearly, the micros have none of these things.

My favorite part of the micro is its name. Someone (perhaps the driver or bus company) christens each micro and paints its name in the front window for all to see. Most of the names make reference to religion, someone's mom or sister, or a big/powerful animal. Over the past few months, I have compiled a list of my favorite micro bus names, which I have been dying to share. They are, in order of originality and effectiveness:

1. El Que No Perdona (He who does not forgive)
2. El Negro II (The black one 2--implying that there is an El 
    Negro I)
3. Tu Peor Pesadilla (Your worst nightmare)
4. Superpuma
5. Me Ves y Lloras (You look at me and cry)
6. Amante Latino (Latin Lover)
7. Doble Impacto (Double Impact)
8. Lobo del Aire (Airwolf)
9. Mis Dos Amores (My two loves)
10. Jumbito (Little Jumbo)

Vote for your favorite one today!


Bloqueos

Bloqueos, or blockades, are an all too common occurence in Bolivia. Basically, if a group or community decides they have a grievance (usually against the government), they will block off the road so that no traffic can get in or out. In causing huge inconveniences with commuting, cutting off access to businesses, work, and schools, the responsible group hopes to call attention to their cause and force the government to comply with their demands. It's dangerous to cross the blockade, because the people who are imposing the blockade can get angry at you for being a scab, and accost you--so the safer thing is to find an alternate route or turn back.

One of the most extreme cases of this occurred in the department of Potosí in late July/early August of this year. Basically, a group of protesters were disputing the government's handling of certain border issues with the neighboring department of Oruro, and were demanding the construction of a cement company and new airport. The main highways and airport out of Potosí were closed off for 3 weeks, work at some of the country's most productive mines was shut down, and thousands of people, including many tourists, were stranded and suffered food shortages. 

Blockade of the road to our clinic in Cochabamba


During our first month in Cochabamba, there was a blockade of one of the main roads to our clinic south of the city. Local community members were protesting against their mayor's office, and as a result, we couldn't go to work for a couple of days.

I'm not sure what percentage of blockades result in compliance with the protesters' demands, but as an observer, it was a shame to see such a loss of productivity and revenue as the result of demands that span the spectrum of validity to shameless self-interest and pettiness. I guess when the option of writing to one's local congressman doesn't exist, the people have to resort to more desperate measures.